Garment Care Guide

At Crane Brothers, we believe in making timeless clothing and footwear that lasts, but to get the very most out of your garments, they do need a bit of special care. We'll walk you through some of the best ways to look after your tailoring, shirts, knits and shoes - and some of the common pitfalls to avoid.



Your suit or jacket will come with a shaped hanger and protective suit bag. This bag should be used for transporting the garments only, and is not suitable for storage. The shoulder of a jacket should sit forward so that the coat hangs straight. A badly hung coat will sag and lose shape, so take a moment to make sure it’s sitting properly. Likewise, always hang your trousers over the hanger, folded along the crease lines. Try not to crush your suits in the wardrobe and allow the fibres to breathe.


Regular brushing with a stiff brush will remove dust build-up. The abrasive quality of dust, combined with friction from wear, is what causes suits to ‘glaze’ or take on a shiny patina. Always brush in long sweeping movements and never use a circular or scrubbing motion. Brushing with the grain of the fabric will produce the best results.


If your suit is wrinkled, do not iron it directly - you risk scorching the cloth. In a pinch, you can press trouser legs by laying a clean, damp tea towel over them and giving them a gentle press. Avoid using an iron on any other area of the jacket or trouser.Hanging your suit in your bathroom whilst running a hot shower is a great way to get it back in shape as the steam helps to relax the fibres. A good cloth has a memory and moisture, heat and gravity will generally help it return to its original shape.If the wrinkles beat you, or you want to get the creases put back into your trousers, take it to your dry-cleaner and have them press the suit (as opposed to having the suit cleaned). Alternatively bring the suit to us and we can have it pressed for you on-site.

Button Care

For more information for how you care mother of pearl buttons, read our Dispatch piece.


Bad dry-cleaning can do irreversible damage to your suit - wherever possible, avoid ‘convenience’ vendors such as one hour or same day services. You will always be better to pay a little more for a service you can trust.

Make sure you use a reputable firm and ask our staff for recommendations. We use Regal Dry-Cleaners in Auckland, Mall Dry-Cleaners in Wellington and Eastern Drycleaners in Christchurch.

Dry-cleaning is very effective at lifting stains, but it is harsh on fabric and should not be used frequently. On average you should expect to dry-clean your suits around twice a year or less, and as a good rule of thumb don’t dry-clean your suit unless it’s been soiled. If you’re looking for that ‘fresh-pressed’ look that dry-cleaned garments have, this can be requested separately without the harsh cleaning treatment - great if you’re simply looking to get your suit back in shape after a hard night out (or in). Always request your garments be pressed by hand to avoid excessive machine pressing. We offer this service on-site - drop your items in and we can have it taken care of for you.

Stains & Repairs

It is inevitable that you will stain your suit at some stage. Most small stains can be gently removed using a baby wipe or cold water, however if in doubt, do not try and remove the stain yourself as you may exacerbate it - this is where a dry-cleaner comes in. We recommend Dr. Beckmann’s range of stain removal products for small stains. If you’re unsure of how best to proceed, speak with one of our team and we can advise you. If your garments do get damaged, need darning, lose a button or are generally looking a bit worse for wear, get in touch with us. We can assess them and in the majority of cases can easily get them back in fighting shape. For more information on moth damage read our Dispatch piece.

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Caring for Your Genuine Panama Hat

General Care

Handle with Clean Hands: Always ensure your hands are clean when handling your Panama hat to prevent stains and dirt transfer.

Handle with Care: Be gentle and avoid pinching or crushing the natural fiber, especially at the crown, to prevent breakage.

Pick Up Properly: Lift your hat by the brim, not the edge, to maintain its shape.

Rain Alert: If it starts to rain, it's best to remove your hat as it may lose its form when wet.

Storage: While Panama hats can be rolled up temporarily, avoid storing it this way for extended periods. Use the provided dust bag for protection.

Moisturizing Tip: Straw can dry out over time. To rehydrate it, occasionally expose your hat to steam, such as during a shower. This helps prevent cracking and maintains the hat's quality.

Cleaning Your Panama Hat

Gentle Cleaning: Use a damp cloth or baby wipe to carefully remove any dirt or marks, 

Spot Cleaning: For minor stains on the straw, gently rub in a light circular motion.

Avoid Soaking: Never submerge your hat in water or leave it damp for extended periods.

Be Gentle: Do not rub too aggressively as this can harm the straw's natural fibers.

Natural Approach: Avoid using soaps or cleaning agents as they might alter the hat's color or texture.

Reshaping Your Panama Hat

Steam is Your Friend: If your hat loses its shape, use steam to reshape it.

Brim Reshaping: To adjust the brim, use your iron's steam on the lowest setting, placing a damp clean cloth between the iron and the hat to prevent direct contact.

Crown Reshaping: For the crown, direct steam from your iron, keeping it about six inches away, to both the inside and outside of the crown for 30 seconds to a minute.

Molding: While the hat is still warm and slightly damp from the steam, place it on your head and mold it to your desired shape using your hands. Keep it on until it starts to retain the shape. If needed, repeat the process until satisfied.

Be Gentle: Do not rub too aggressively as this can harm the straw's natural fibers.

Natural Approach: Avoid using soaps or cleaning agents as they might alter the hat's color or texture.



Always wash your shirts with the buttons undone - this will lessen the chance of them getting snagged. Likewise remove any collar stays - they’re liable to go missing or get bent out of shape, and their presence can cause additional wear for the collar.

Wash your shirts inside out - it helps prevent the buttons from chipping and allows the cleaning agents direct access to underarms stains. Always check the washing instructions on each shirt for directions around washing temperature. As a rule, between 20ºC and 40ºC is a good washing temperature for a fine cotton shirt. Avoid the dryer if possible - line-drying on a hanger is the best way to keep your shirts looking their best.


As with tailoring, use a service that you trust and avoid cheap or ‘convenience’ focussed services - they can often be more trouble than they’re worth. Always request your garments be pressed by hand to avoid excessive machine pressing. Request a hand-washing service if possible - this is gentler on the fabric and will help preserve the natural fibres.


It goes without saying, but make sure your iron is set to the correct fabric setting. The best time to iron your shirts is when they’re still a little damp from the wash - you’ll find it much easier to get creases out when the fibres are soft and pliable.

For dry shirts, or stubborn creases, use some steam, but then follow up with a dry press. It’s easiest to work from the outside in - collar, cuffs, sleeves, shoulders and yoke, front then back.

Iron your shirt unbuttoned, one side at a time.Iron your collar from the tips towards the centre - that way the floating fabric will be gathered towards the back of the neck rather than bunching on the collar tips. Be gentle with the tips - they’re easily scorched when ironing.

Always, always remove your collar stays before ironing - keeping them in can permanently damage your shirt. Iron your cuffs unbuttoned and double cuffs laid flat. Be gentle around the edges and seams as they can also get damaged with undue pressure.



To avoid shrinkage, knitwear should wherever possible be cold hand-washed. Wash inside out and air-dry flat - a knitwear drying rack is a great investment as it allows knits to air-flat with airflow from both sides. For more robust stains, speak with a reputable drycleaner. Knits as a rule should not themselves be drycleaned, but most quality drycleaners will offer a dedicated laundry service for such items. Due to the delicate nature of knitwear, it’s best to spend a little more for a premium service.



Just like quality pieces of clothing, sunglasses deserve the same degree of care. Look after them and they will last a lifetime and become heirloom pieces. Always store them in their protective case while you're not wearing them - they're a must if you're packing or storing your sunglasses for a long period.


Always use a microfibre cleaning cloth to clean your sunglasses. It's there for a reason, and it will help you remove any dirt or smudges.


Gently put on and off your sunglasses, and make sure that you don't stretch or bend the arms. When you wear your sunglasses on top of your head, the screws holding up your sunglasses will loosen. Avoid exposing your sunglasses to excessive heat - this can lead to a distortion of the frame and if you’re at the beach make sure to keep your sunglasses protected from sand and sea water.



Invest in cedarwood shoe trees for your shoes (and avoid plastic alternatives). They help them stay in shape, keep the leather stretched so it doesn’t wrinkle or crack, and the wood absorbs moisture after wear and wicks away odor. Shoe trees can dramatically increase the lifespan of your shoes, and keep them looking their best for years to come. Always put your shoes on and off using a shoe horn in order to keep their shape intact.


Laces can fray, snap and break overtime and always in the most inconvenient of scenarios. For lace up derbies or oxfords having an extra pair at home or at the office is great - better yet pop a pair into your briefcase or day bag so you're not caught out when commuting. The fibres in laces wear down from extended water or heat exposure, ensure you are storing your shoes in a cool, dry place.


Saphir Medaille D’Or’s most famous product is their Renovateur, made from beeswax and mink oil. Renovateur is the holy grail of shoe care products - regularly applying a light coat of Renovateur will help keep your shoe’s leather supple, protected and restored. The best time to do this is prior to polishing.

There are two kinds of polish - cream and wax. Cream offers a more matte finish, but is better at nourishing older, dry or scuffed leather. Wax offers a more high-shine patina and works best on smooth calf leathers.

For a basic polish, apply a thin layer of polish all over the shoes using a soft cloth and leave them to sit for a minute or two, giving the polish time to soak in.

Then, with a stiff polishing brush, brush down the surface of the shoes using brisk horizontal strokes. Do not scrub. Once they have been brushed fully, you should have a good shine on your hands. Using a small woollen polishing pad, revisit the whole shoe, with particular attention to the toe. This should help it achieve an even richer, deeper shine.

Suede Jackets

Water & Liquids

Protect your jacket from water and other liquids. Suede is susceptible to water stains, so avoid wearing your jacket in the rain or near water sources. Apply a suede protector spray to your jacket to protect it from water damage and stains.


Brush your jacket regularly. Use a suede brush to gently brush the nap of your jacket in one direction to remove dirt and debris. Be sure to brush in the same direction to maintain the suede's appearance.

Stain Removal

Remove stains immediately. If you spill something on your suede jacket, use a clean cloth to blot the area gently. Do not rub the stain, as this can damage the suede. Allow the jacket to air dry completely before brushing it with a suede brush.


Store your jacket properly. Hang your suede jacket on a sturdy hanger in a cool, dry place. Avoid storing it in a damp or humid environment, as this can cause mildew or mould growth. Also, avoid direct sunlight, as this can cause fading.


Seek professional cleaning. If your suede jacket needs deep cleaning, take it to a professional cleaner who specialises in suede. Do not attempt to clean the jacket yourself, as this can cause irreparable damage.