When we sat down a few months ago to look at how to improve on our popular Five Pocket Pant, we knew what we were aiming for. The initial brief remained but we wanted to improve on what we had originally created: a stylish, adaptable trouser that was designed from the ground up for smart Antipodean daily wear. That meant it needed to be dressy enough to sit smartly with tailoring, but casual enough to be worn on the weekend with a light knit, a polo or even a t-shirt.
Our design process always begins with selecting the correct fabric. After extensive sampling and testing, we settled on a broken cotton twill with a brushed surface, which offered a more dressy finish than our denim or a heavy gauge twill but without sacrificing drape and durability. The cloth is also an ideal weight for New Zealand - breathable enough to be worn through warmer months but not so light that it won’t carry you through winter as well; a true trans-seasonal solution.
Next came the fit. Version one of the Five Pocket style had been really successful, nicely splitting the difference between a jean and a chino and offering an excellent mix of versatility and comfort. We had created a significant number of pairs, both ready-to-wear and made-to-measure, and that gave us some great data to work with to help us delicately refine the fit. But we also wanted to elevate the style beyond being a simple jean cut - and doing that meant taking the style apart entirely and rethinking every individual element.
To start with, we transitioned to a split waistband design, and coupled this with a slightly higher rise and classic straight leg, giving added comfort and a more classic aesthetic. We also increased the spec of the garment details across the board by adding a hidden coin pocket for added convenience, finer twin-stitch construction, AMF belt loops and Reece buttonholes. We’ve fastidiously hidden the rivets throughout for a more streamlined sartorial edge, and applied birds feet bar-tacking for extra durability.
Across the board, every aspect of our Five Pocket Pants has been rethought and refined. The end result is an elegantly enhanced garment, made in Italy, with all the hallmarks of a tailoring that works with just about anything, from casual clothing to something much more formal. It works just as well at home as it does out and about, whether that's in the local neighbourhood, in the office or an evening out. Versatile, adaptable and practical.