by Murray Crane
The Navy Suit remains one of those items that most men need in their wardrobe and its versatility can be explained by focussing on a few key points.
A Navy or mid-blue is far more versatile and interesting in terms of colour combination. Midnight looks smart with a white shirt and black shoes, but not a lot else. Navy, on the other hand, also looks good with those accessories, but is equally smart with a chocolate brown or tan shoe.
If you're still dressing formally it remains the perfect base to pair nearly any tie with and if you are sans tie, like so many of us are, then a stripe (make mine a Bengal) works perfectly.
Cloth is the next key component and this is where the rabbit hole becomes deep and winding.
I don't want to speak about the myriad of options available but if I had to edit it down to 4 of my all time favourites they would be ( in no particular order).
Ariston Super 130's Double Twisted P138-9: The perfect all rounder, ideally suited to our climate it boasts excellent durability.
Loro Piana Winter Tasmanian Super 150's 669046: If you favour your garments a little heavier this is the optimum weight without the stiffness of many of the English mills.
Loro Piana Australis N707083: Exceptionally fine, this featherweight wool is incredibly hard wearing.
Caccioppoli Plain Colours Super 150's 300446: A Tropical weight ideal for our warmer and humid weather with a touch of Neapolitan flair.
After making and selling suits over the past 3 decades these all represent the perfect weight, drape and tone you should be striving for in such a perennial garment. We continue to work with all these mills and utilise these very articles in our Ready to Wear and Made to Measure offerings.
Last but not least is the cut. Whether you're investing in a Ready to Wear or a Made to Measure garment get the fundamentals right; work with someone you trust but be clear on what you like and dislike.
My recommendation is (always) to stay away from any detail, however small, that could in time start to annoy you. Remember that the most important thing is a superior fit so don't try and reinvent the wheel when it comes to styling.
Remember that a well cut suit in the correct cloth will have you perfectly equipped for any situation or occasion. It will put a smile on your partners face and, when required, gain the forgiveness you may need. It will please great aunts and mother in laws in equal measure and will instil the necessary confidence from mentors and bosses whilst extracting every ounce of fear and respect demanded from minions and adversaries.
Founder Murray Crane caught up with Awling and discussed all things menswear, New Zealand’s approach to it and why he’s so fond of handcrafted goods. Read a shortened copy below or visit Awling to read to full interview. Hi Murray, thanks for finding some time to speak to us. Let’s start with getting some background on yourself. Where...
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