The Understated Style of the Cotton Summer Suit
by Ben St. George
A question we often get asked is why choose cotton tailoring over a more traditional wool. And if you’re looking for a five-day-a-week beater for work, then yes, wool is the superior choice. But if you’re after something that’s both elegant and laid-back in equal measure, then cotton suiting is perfect - easy-going tailoring ideal for the Antipodean lifestyle.
Firstly, and crucially, cotton is wonderfully light. In spring and summer (and indeed much of the autumn), it’s an optimal, comfortable temperature - much more breathable than wool, but with a touch more body than linen. Cotton twill is woven tighter than linen as well, giving it better breeze resistance (always a factor in spring) without adding bulk. We’ve used a cotton twill from esteemed Italian mill Larusmiani that has just a whisker of stretch to it, giving it even more freedom of movement.
Cotton suiting also just feels much more carefree and casual - and for New Zealand in the summertime, that couldn’t be more appropriate. Whilst cotton doesn’t naturally hold dye the way that, say, wool does, what it offers instead is the ability to age beautifully. As with jeans, well-loved cotton tailoring takes wear and tear in its stride and looks all the better for it, and the way it naturally lightens around seams and stitching adds immeasurably to its charm. It does crease, but not as harshly as linen, which makes it an ideal middle ground, and it’s a great way to add something dressy into one’s wardrobe that doesn’t feel too stiff - that keeps its wearer looking chic and feeling relaxed.
It’s this essential, breezy elegance, this balancing of nonchalance and structure, that makes it such a popular choice for summer events - weddings and cocktail events in particular. It holds its drape perfectly for photos without impeding movement or cooking the wearer in the summer sun. Furthermore, the fresh, seasonal tones we’ve chosen of sand and mid-blue look great teamed with traditional wedding tones of white, ivory and oyster - or pair them with a dark navy shirt underneath and a brown suede loafer and you’ve got the perfect outfit for an evening out.
We’ve also designed our cotton suiting to be versatile. As well as pairing smartly together as a two-piece, the jacket and trouser work excellently on their own as a blazer and tailored chinos - ideal for when you need to sharpen a shirt up with the right trousers, or team a punchy jacket with your selvedge denim. All of this combines to make a spring or summer suit ne plus ultra - one that looks sharp but feels easy. If there’s a more timelessly appropriate aesthetic for the New Zealand summer, it’s surely yet to be discovered.
Mid-Blue Stretch Cotton Two-Piece Suit, Classic White Twill Semi-Spread Collar Acton Shirt, Navy Grenadine Silk Tie
Sand Stretch Cotton Two-Piece Suit, White American Oxford Cloth Summer Button-Down Shirt, Kirk Originals Tortoiseshell "Granger" Handmade Sunglasses
Mid-Blue Stretch Cotton Two-Piece Suit, Classic White Twill Semi-Spread Collar Acton Shirt, Navy Grenadine Silk Tie, Kirk Originals Ebony & Charcoal "Creed" Sunglasses
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