Got Your Goat

One of the quirks of living in the Southern Hemisphere in a subtropical climate is that most significant occasions occur during Spring and Summer. This adds a layer of complexity to dressing for Black Tie events and weddings, as these gatherings often take place in extremely hot and humid conditions. Not only does this mean that the wearer is uncomfortable, but garments also tend to look disheveled and creased.

The solution to this sartorial dilemma is mohair. Made from the hair of the Angora goat, mohair has long been valued for its unique properties in tailoring. It is renowned for its two-tone sheen and a distinct combination of lightness and sharpness, making it a popular choice for evening wear.

Mohair’s ability to hold its shape while remaining lightweight makes it a practical alternative to high-twist wools in warmer climates. It offers breathability and a polished, sleek appearance. Mohair is also strong for its weight, crease-resistant, naturally elastic, and takes dye exceptionally well, which contributes to its vibrant color options.

Mohair suits gained prominence in the 1960s, particularly among Mods, for their exotic sheen and sharp structure. While the look has evolved, mohair continues to offer a refined, high-end option for those seeking a balance between practicality and style. In regions like Southeast Asia, where high-twist wools can feel too dry or textured, mohair’s sleekness makes it a desirable alternative.

The amount of mohair in a fabric mix significantly affects its characteristics. High-mohair blends (50% or more) produce the distinctive lustre and crisp texture associated with traditional British tailoring, while lower blends (5-15%) add a subtle crispness without overwhelming the wool. Vintage mohairs, often heavier and more textured, are prized for their character, while modern fabrics focus more on coolness and lightness, ideal for today’s summer tailoring.

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