A Visit to Fox Brothers
Written by Murray Crane
Spent the day at the Fox Brothers mill in Somerset, visiting a site with more than two centuries of continuous cloth making behind it. At their peak in the early twentieth century the mill employed over 5,000 staff and supplied flannel and worsted cloth throughout Britain and abroad. Much of that production passed through the same historic buildings that remain in Wellington today, a physical reminder of the scale and influence Fox once held within British manufacturing.
Just outside Chipping Norton stands Bliss Tweed Mill. Founded in 1756 by Thomas Bliss, it grew across successive generations of the Bliss family and reached its height in the mid-nineteenth century. The mill was purchased by Fox Brothers in 1920, although production sadly ceased in 1980. Fox have recently rediscovered the original archive fabrics and reproduced a series of tweeds and wool and linen mixes as a relatively new addition to the Fox livery. The spirit of progress championed by early leaders such as W. Bliss is still evident in these revived qualities.
Under the stewardship of Douglas Cordeaux, Fox has reasserted its relevance in a modern industry that often prioritises speed over substance. His influence is clear in both the preservation of the archives and the development of new qualities that push the mill’s heritage forward rather than simply repeat it. That balance between tradition and innovation has helped position Fox as a preferred mill for many leading fashion houses, including Balenciaga, Hermès and Prada, all of whom rely on their cloth for its depth, character and authenticity.
The mill site itself reflects this renewed energy. Alongside the weaving and finishing there is now a coffee roastery and microbrewery on site, part of a broader effort to create a more open, creative environment that brings new audiences into the orbit of the mill.
I spent time in the archives reviewing early production records and cloth that defined the reputation of West Country flannel, then moved into the seasonal collections and selected several qualities for our 2026 Seasonal Collection. We reviewed our cut length offer and gained a clearer understanding of how that programme supports smaller makers like us. Last but not least I earmarked a couple of qualities for new commissions for myself and picked up a new lead and collar for Mr Fritz, who is a bit of a fox himself.
We have worked with Fox for years and their fabrics continue to play an important part in our wardrobe offering. Visiting the mill brought that relationship into sharper focus. It showed how heritage and modern vision can sit comfortably together and reinforced why we continue to return to them season after season.
